Just for the record, I focus on Non-NFA barrel configurations for 2 reasons: velocity/muzzle energy from the length of the barrel and avoiding unnecessary legal/regulatory issues such as filling out a Form 1, paying a $200 tax, and setting up an NFA Trust. I also am not a slave to accuracy and I don't shoot in 3-gun competitions. I view AR 15s as battle rifles, not precision rifles. We're talking about a gun chambered in 5.56, not 6.5 Creedmoor or .338 Lapua, so its range is limited. (Generally, a maximum effective range of somewhere around 500 yards, give or take, depending on the specific rifle and load.) As such, barrels that are NOT built to withstand rapid fire, are meant to be disposed of after 2,000 rounds (or, similar low round count), or have very limited corrosion resistance will not be featured here. I would only build an AR 15 for myself that I could reasonably go to war (GTW) with, if I needed to. You might also note that I do not recommend Colt parts. It's not because they're no good - it's just that they are hard to get and way over-priced. I'd prefer a BCM part over a Colt in virtually all cases, anyway.
Speaking of BCM, it may come across as though I am a fanboy of theirs. The truth is, they make great guns at very reasonable prices and are among the leaders in innovations to the AR15 platform. Truthfully, if I ever buy another complete rifle, it will probably be one of theirs. I love Daniel Defense as a company, but they aren't "lighter, stronger, better" anymore - BCM is. Check out the BCM KMR Rails and the Gunfighter Stocks as examples of how DD is being beat in weight and ergos by BCM. Check out the BCM CHF Barrels and the weight-saving profile they use. Knight's Armament makes a great product too, but it's ridiculously over-priced and not as light-weight. The rest of the industry needs to react or BCM could absolutely rule the market. So, maybe I am a fanboy, but it's for good reason!
RECEIVERS:
- Bravo Company: Upper and Lower
- Wilson Combat: Upper/Lower Combo
- V Seven: Upper and Lower
- Spike's Tactical: Upper and Lower
- Aero Precision: Upper and Lower
- Palmetto State Armory: Upper and Lower
- Rainier Arms: Upper and Lower
UPPER PARTS:
Barrels:
- Daniel Defense 16" 5.56mm Mid-length, LW
- Spike's 16" Mid-length (by FN)
- Bravo Company BFH 16" ELW
- Faxon Firearms 16" Gunner Profile Barrel
Note: The first 3 are Cold-Hammer Forged, Chrome-lined, and available in 16" with a Mid-length gas system set up. The only one with a .625" diameter gas block seat is the BCM. The others are .750" diameter gas block seats, which I prefer because I dimple my barrels to secure the Gas Block. Spike's barrels are built with the M249 call-outs for Chrome lining, which makes the barrels wider to accommodate the extra Chrome and, obviously, heavier. If you are planning to use a full auto lower and put the automatic setting to extensive use, I recommend the Spike's barrel. In general, I think the Daniel Defense barrel I linked is the perfect barrel and is my default for almost all builds.
Note #2: I've found that Odin Works, Ballistic Advantage, and Faxon Firearms make very good quality barrels at reasonable prices. Very accurate barrels, especially Odin Works. If you are looking for a good, pre-made barrel for accuracy, I suggest searching their wares. You'll find longer-lasting durability out of the QPQ or Nitrided barrels, but the most precise rifling is found in the bare stainless barrels.
Handguards/Rails:
- BCM KMR Handguard
- BCM KMR Alpha Handguard
- Geissele Super Modular Rail MK14 M-LOK
- Troy M-LOK Rail
- SLR Solo Ultra Light Keymod
- SLR Solo Ultra Light M-LOK
- ODIN Works KMod Forend
- ODIN Works M-LOK Forend
Gas Blocks:
- Spike's Micro Gas Block
- Seekins Precision Adjustable
- ODINWorks LP Gas Block
- BCM Low Profile Gas Block
Gas Tubes:
Note: If you're looking to save money, any reputable manufacturer will do. Getting the Gas Tube melonited makes a difference in corrosion resistance and it will ensure proper function in extreme use, such as rapid fire. It also allows you to maintain the black rifle finish without something shiny underneath. Either of these will work exceptionally well.
Bolt Carrier Groups:
- Bravo Company
- Wilson Combat
- Daniel Defense
- Spike's Tactical
- Palmetto State Armory
- Cryptic Coatings (Mystic Black)
- Noveske (Nitride)
Charging Handles:
Note: If you're looking to save money, buy a Mil Spec Charging Handle from any reputable manufacturer. The ones I've linked here are all really good. My personal favorite is the BCM Mod 4. V Seven is one of the best weight-saving manufacturers and their charging handle is light, as well. If you want lightweight, I strongly recommend their parts.
Upper Parts/Kits:
- Spike's Ejection Port Door
- Aero Precision Kit
- V Seven Ultra-Light Port Door
- V Seven Ultra-Light Forward assist
- Tactical Gear Junkie's huge selection of Ejection Port Doors
Muzzle Devices:
- Any A2 Flash Hider from a reputable company: BCM, Aero Precision, Spike's, Damage Industries, etc.
- Any reputable Suppressors: Silencerco, Griffin, Gemtech, etc.
LOWER PARTS:
Triggers:
Note: Pretty much any trigger from those manufacturers will do the job and do it well. If you get a Mil-Spec trigger with a LPK (Lower Parts Kit) from a reputable company, you should be fine. It's important to note that virtually any great shooter will tell you the best upgrade you can make to an AR, outside of the barrel, is the trigger. It's not that a Mil-Spec trigger can't be accurate, it's that the effort required to pull the trigger matters when taking precision shots. For ultimate reliability with high round count and high rate of fire, I recommend you go with a Milspec trigger, like the ALG QMS. If you end up shooting less than 1,000 rounds a year out of the gun and you want to maximize your accuracy with the gun, you should look into Geissele or CMC.
Lower Parts and Part Kits:
- BCM LPK Enhanced
- ALG LPK
- PSA MOE/QMS LPK
- PSA K2/QMS LPK
- V Seven Lower Parts
- Wilson Combat LPK (No Trigger)
Endplates:
Note: If you're going to stake the endplate, I generally recommend the BCM endplate, but I have staked the melonited Magpul ASAP QD. I ONLY recommend steel endplates because I recommend staking them, rather than lock-tighting them.
Buffers:
Note: I like all these and they will all work very well. The V Seven, as per their usual, comes in on the lighter-end, while the BCM and DD are a tiny bit heavier. All should function flawlessly in your gun with a 16" mid-length barrel, Full Auto BCG, and standard spring. To avoid issues, I recommend this set up and the Buffers I listed are all selected with such a set up in mind. It is important to get a Buffer that you can rely on to do its job. If it doesn't do the job, you're shooting the most awkward bolt-action gun, ever. (Assuming it doesn't jam.) On the plus side, I've never heard of a Buffer causing an injury - just cyclic problems. Test it at the range and see if you have any problems with rapid fire. If you can fire your rifle slowly and rapidly with no feeding issues, you're good to go. If you're not sure which to buy first, BCM is my default recommendation - it'll probably be the only one you need to buy.
Note: There are two things that matter here: 1. getting a 7075 T6 tube and 2. getting it in Mil Spec diameter. Truthfully, there is nothing wrong with commercial spec Tubes, but don't try to use them on a Mil Spec rifle. Also, there are more options for Mil Spec than Commercial. Any tube from a high quality manufacturer that meets the 2 criteria above should work and you might consider other options if you're building a FDE or OD green gun, for instance.
Stocks:
Note: This is totally personal preference and these are the ones I will consider putting on my rifles. I can tell you with certainty that the BCM gunfighter stock is the best strength to weight option you'll find and it's very comfortable. This is also a place where a lot of guys add unneeded weight because some 3-gun shooter loves a certain stock or the Spec Ops guys use SOPMOD. So, people end up with heavier stocks that aren't giving them a performance increase, but they increase the weight of the gun. There are 3 key factors: 1. Does it feel good against your cheek/shoulder? 2. How light is it? 3. How durable is it? To me, the best choice is the BCM Gunfighter or MFT Minimalist - I go back and forth between the two in terms of preference.
Pistol Grips:
Note: This is very much about personal preference. Many people like Egro grips or Hogue and there is nothing wrong with that. But, I do not like finger grooves, as in Ergo grips, and the rubber Hogues always catch on everything - which is always a pain when you've got the rifle slung. That is also why I dislike the Magpul MOE+. Basically, if you like a thinner grip for ergonomic reasons or because you just have a smaller hands and can't grab larger grips, I recommend the Magpul SL or the MOE, depending on which angle you prefer. My personal favorite is usually the Gunfighter Mod 3, but I flip-flop back forth between the Gunfighter Mod 3 and the K2. The SL and MOE are the lightest weight options (by 0.1 oz) and the BCMs are actually about 0.5 oz heavier than the others, but are meant for modern shooting styles, fill the hand, and provide excellent control. (You could always remove the plug at the end of the BCM Mod 3 to lighten the weight of the grip.)
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